By Car The main highways going north and south link up in Athens; both are called Ethniki Odos (the National Road). At the city limits, signs in English clearly mark the way to both Constitution Square and Concord Square in the town center. Leaving Athens, routes to the National Road are well marked; signs usually name Lamia for points north and Corinth or Patras for points southwest. On the road map distributed by the EOT (Greek National Tourist Organization; tel. 01/322-2545, tel. 01/961-2722, or tel. 01/413-5716), the National Roads are yellow and are marked by European road numbers, although these are not used on the roads themselves. Beware: The highways are very slick when wet, and there are many fatal accidents. Avoid driving in rain and on days preceding or following major holidays; Greece's car-accident rate, one of the highest in the EC, escalates wildly during the mass migrations to and from the city. The speed limit is 120 kph (74 mph) on the National Road, 90 kph (54 mph) outside urban areas. From Athens to Thessaloniki, the distance is 515 km (309 mi); to Kalamata, 257 km (154 mi); to Corinth, 84 km (50 mi); to Lamia, 214 km (128 mi); to Patras, 218 km (131 mi); to Igoumenitsa, 472 km (283 mi).

By Ship Cruise ships and ferries to and from the Aegean islands dock at Piraeus (Port Authority, Akti Mouli, tel. 01/422-6000 or 01/451-1311), the main port, 10 km (6 mi) southwest of Athens. Ships for the Ionian islands sail from ports further west, including Patras and Igoumenitsa. Connections from Piraeus are good. Travel agents and ship offices in Athens and Piraeus have details. Timetables change very frequently, and boats may be delayed by weather conditions, so your plans should be flexible. Buy your tickets two or three days in advance, especially if you are traveling in summer or taking a car. Reserve your return journey or continuation soon after you arrive. From Piraeus, the quickest way to get into the town center, if you are traveling light, is to walk to the metro station and take an electric train to Concord Square, a trip of about 25 minutes (100 dr.). Those arriving by hydrofoil at the smaller Zea Marina Harbor should take Bus 905 or Trolley 20 to the metro station. Alternatively, you can take a taxi (if you find one), which may take longer owing to traffic, and will cost around 1,300 dr. The other main port is Rafina (Port, Port Authority, tel. 0294/22300), on the eastern coast of Attica, where boats to and from Evia and some of the closer Cyclades dock. Orange KTEL buses (tel. 01/821-0872) make the trip to Athens every half hour until about 10 PM; they leave from the station slightly up the hill from the port and the fare is 400 dr. The trip takes about one hour. It is difficult to find taxis to take you to Athens (about 5,000 dr.).

By Train Greek trains have a well-earned reputation for being slow and having a limited network. The main line runs north from Athens to the former Yugoslavia, dividing into three lines at Thessaloniki. The main line continues on to Belgrade, a second line goes east to the Turkish border and Istanbul, and a third line heads northeast to Bulgaria. The Peloponnese in the south is served by a narrow-gauge line dividing at Corinth into the Mycenae-Argos route and Patras-Olympia-Kalamata. The Greek Railway Organization (OSE) has two stations in Athens, side by side: trains from the north and international trains arrive at, and depart from, Stathmos Larissis (between Diliyianni and Leoforos Konstantinoupoleos, tel. 01/823-7741). Take Trolley 1 from the terminal to Omonia Square; trains from the Peloponnese use the quaint Stathmos Peloponnisou (between Diliyianni and Leoforos Konstantinoupoleos, tel. 01/513-1601) next door. The café continues the station's striking art-nouveau motif, from its burgundy ceiling with ornate moldings and antique-crystal-teardrop chandelier to its original bronze gas lamps. Both stations have left-luggage service and snack bars. To Omonia and Syntagma squares, take Bus 57. The IC express service from the north is fast and reliable (Thessaloniki-Athens takes 6 hours). Express service has also begun on the Athens-Patras line (about 4 hours). On any train, it is best to travel first class, with a reserved seat, as the difference between the first-class and tourist coaches can be vast: Without a seat reservation you could end up standing or crouched among the baggage. Since the station phones are almost always busy and agents often don't speak English, it's easier to get information and tickets at a railway office downtown (Karolou 1, near Concord Sq., tel. 01/524-0646 through 01/524-0648; Sina 6, tel. 01/362-4402 through 4406; Filellinon 17, near Syntagma Sq., tel. 01/323-6747 and 01/323-6273). You may also call (tel. 145) for a recorded departure timetable, in Greek, of trains within Greece; call (tel. 147) for information on trains to Europe and Russia.

You may bring into Greece duty-free: food and beverages up to 22 pounds (10 kilograms); 200 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, or 50 cigars; 1 liter of alcoholic spirits or 2 liters of wine; and gift articles up to a total of 51,000 dr. Foreign bank notes amounting to more than $2,500 must be declared for reexport, but there are no restrictions on traveler's checks. Foreign visitors may take in 100,000 dr. in Greek currency and export up to 40,000 dr. Only one per person of such expensive portable items as cameras, camcorders, tape recorders and the like is permitted into Greece. Sports equipment, such as bicycles and skis, is also limited to one (pair) per person. To bring in a dog or a cat, you need a health certificate issued by a veterinary authority and validated by the Greek consulate and the appropriate medical authority (in the U.S., the Department of Agriculture). It must state that your pet doesn't carry any infectious diseases and that it received a rabies inoculation not more than 12 months (for cats, six months) and not fewer than six days before arrival. Dogs must also have a veterinary certificate that indicates they have been wormed against echinococcus. The export of antiquities from Greece is forbidden. If any such articles are found in a traveler's luggage, they will be confiscated and the individual will be liable for prosecution. Reproductions of ancient works of art, some of very high quality, can be purchased throughout Greece and may be exported freely.

The Hotel Inter-Continental (reservations tel. 800/327-0200) has seven rooms specifically adapted for travelers with disabilities (wider doors, handrails, storage space for wheelchair), and most public areas are accessible.

For auto accidents call the city police (tel. 100). Tourist police (tel. 171). Fire (tel. 199). Ambulance (tel. 166), though a taxi is often faster. For a doctor on call 2 PM-7 AM on Sunday and holidays, dial 105 (in Greek). Hospitals Not all hospitals are open nightly; dial (tel. 106 in Greek) or check the English-language Athens News, which lists emergency hospitals daily. KAT Hospital (Nikis 2, Kifissia, tel. 01/801-4411 for accidents); Asklepion Hospital (Vassileos Pavlou 1, Voula, tel. 01/895-8301 through 01/895-8305); Ygeia (Er. Stavrou 4, Maroussi, tel. 01/682-7940). Children go to Aglaia Kyriakou Hospital (Livadias and Thivon, Goudi, tel. 01/777-5610 and 01/778-3212) or Ayia Sofia Hospital (Mikras Asias and Thivon, Goudi, tel. 01/777-1811 or 01/775-8010). Late-Night Pharmacies Call 107 for a Greek recording of pharmacies open on holidays or check the Athens News. Each pharmacy posts a list of nearby establishments that are open during the afternoon break or late at night. A conveniently located pharmacy where English is spoken is Marinopoulos (Kanari 23, Kolonaki, tel. 01/361-3053). Thomas (Papadiamantopoulou 6, near the Hilton Hotel and Holiday Inn, Ilissia, tel. 01/721-6101) is another safe bet for convenience and spoken English. Embassies United States: Vasilissis Sofias 91, tel. 01/721-2951. Canada: Gennadiou 4, tel. 01/725-4011. United Kingdom: Ploutarchou 1, tel. 01/723-6211.

The Booknest (Folia Tou Bibliou, Panepistimiou 25-29, near Syntagma, tel. 01/322-9560) has an ample selection of American authors. Compendium (Nikis 28, near Syntagma, tel. 01/322-1248) has travel books, books on Greece, one of Athens's few women's-studies sections, and used books. Go to Eleftheroudakis for fiction, language guides, and coffee-table editions at the following locales: (Nikis 4, Syntagma Sq., tel. 01/322-9388); a newer larger store (Panepistimiou 17, tel. 01/331-4180); Athens Tower (Building A, Sinopis 2, tel. 01/770-8007); and in the Psychiko shopping center (Kifissias 294, tel. 01/687-8350). There's also Kauffman (Stadiou 28, Center, tel. 01/322-2160), for a limited selection of American fiction, and Pantelides (Amerikis 9-11, Syntagma Sq., tel. 01/362-3673). Worth a visit is Reymondos (Voukourestiou 18, Center, tel. 01/364-8188). At the Hellenic-American Union (Massalias 22, Exarchia) is the American Library (4th Floor, tel. 01/363-8114); the Greek Library (7th Floor, tel. 01/362-9886) has a section of books in English on Greek subjects. Also try the British Council Library (Kolonaki Sq. 17, tel. 01/364-5768). The Gennadius Library, American School of Classical Studies (Soudias 61, Kolonaki, tel. 01/721-0536) is also interesting.

By Car Driving in Athens is not recommended unless you have nerves of steel. Red traffic lights are frequently ignored, and it is not unusual to see motorists passing on hills and while rounding corners. Driving is on the right, and although the vehicle on the right has the right-of-way, don't expect this or any other driving rule to be obeyed. The speed limit is 50 kph (31 mph) in town. Seat belts are compulsory, as are helmets for motorcyclists, though many natives ignore the laws. In downtown Athens, do not drive in the bus lanes marked by a yellow divider. REQUIREMENTS Unless you are a citizen of an EC country, you must have an international driver's license. The Automobile and Touring Club of Greece, or ELPA (Athens Tower, Messoghion 2-4, tel. 01/748-8800; in an emergency, tel. 104), no longer issues these, so non-EC members should arrange for a license through their local automobile association. ELPA can help with tourist information for drivers (tel. 174), and they assist tourists with breakdowns free of charge if they belong to AAA or to ELPA; otherwise, there is a charge. CAR RENTAL The major car-rental companies represented in Greece are Avis (tel. 800/331-1084; in Canada, 800/879-2847), Budget (tel. 800/527-0700; in the U.K., 0800/181181), Hertz (tel. 800/654-3001; in Canada, 800/263-0600; in the U.K., 0345/555888), and National InterRent (sometimes known as Europcar InterRent outside North America; tel. 800/227-3876; in the U.K., 0345/222-525). Rates in Greece begin at $33 a day and $163 a week for an economy car with unlimited mileage. This does not include tax on car rentals, which is 18% (13% on some islands). Other companies operating in Athens include Thrifty (Syngrou 24, tel. 01/922-1211 through 1213 and 01/921-6000); Greece Rent-A-Car (Syngrou 7, tel. 01/924-9802 through 01/924-9804), which has weekly and monthly rates; Pappas Rent-A-Car (Amalias 44, tel. 01/322-0087 and 01/323-4772); and Swift Car Rental (Nikis 21, tel. 01/324-7855 and 324-7875). PARKING & GASOLINE Downtown parking spaces are hard to find--you can pay to use one of the few temporary parking areas set up in vacant lots, but you're better off leaving your car in the hotel garage and walking or taking a cab. Gas pumps and service stations are everywhere, and lead-free gas is widely available. Be aware that many stations close at 7 PM.

By Mass Transit The price of public transportation has risen steeply in the last couple of years, but it is still less than that in western European capitals. Riding during rush hours is definitely not recommended. Upon boarding, validate your ticket in the orange canceling machines at the front and back of buses and trolleys and in the stations of the electric trains. Keep your tickets until you reach your destination, as inspectors occasionally pop up to check that they have been canceled and validated. They are strict about fining offenders, including tourists. The Organization for Urban Public Transportation (Metsovou 15, tel. 185 or 01/883-6076), open Monday to Friday 8 to 2:30, one block north of the National Archaeological Museum, answers questions about routes (usually only in Greek) and distributes maps with street names in Greek. BUS AND TROLLEY Main bus stations are at Vasilissis Olgas next to Zappion hall, at Acadimias and Sina, and at Kaningos Square. Bus and trolley tickets cost 75 dr. You may continue from a trunk line (A1-A16) to a connecting bus on the same ticket, and the mini "shopping" buses that serve the downtown historical triangle are free. No transfers are issued; monthly passes are available. Tickets are sold in special booths at bus terminals and at selected periptera (street kiosks). Buses run from the center to all suburbs and suburban beaches from 5 AM-midnight, and major routes have infrequent owl service. For suburbs farther north than central Kifissia, you have to change there. KTEL orange buses provide efficient bus service throughout the Attica basin. Most buses to the east Attica coast, including those for Sounion (tel. 01/823-0179), fare 1,050 dr., and Marathon (tel. 01/821-0872), fare 650 dr., leave from the KTEL terminal, Platia Aigyptou at the corner of Mavromateon and Leoforos Alexandras. SUBWAY The one partially underground electric train line stretches from Piraeus to Kifissia, northeast of the city's center, with 20 stops in between. It was constructed in 1868, one of the earliest in Europe, and electrified in 1904. It is limited but functions well and is very safe, even late at night. The trains run 5 AM-midnight and the fare is 75 dr. or 100 dr. depending on the distance. There are no special fares or day tickets for visitors. Validate your ticket by stamping it in the orange machines at the entrance to the platforms.

By Taxi Taxi rates here are still affordable compared to those in other European capitals. It seems paradoxical that more than 17,000 taxis are on the streets of Athens, yet during peak hours it's impossible to find an empty one. A taxi driver may pass you up because it's not his day to enter the center of Athens. Taxis with passengers often operate unofficially on the jitney system, indicating willingness to pick up others by blinking their headlights. Would-be passengers shout their destination as the driver cruises past. Radio taxis can be booked by your hotel (a good idea when taking an early morning flight) with a surcharge of 300 dr. for immediate response and 400 dr. for an appointment to come later. Some radio-taxi companies are: Aris (tel. 01/346-7137 or 01/346-7102); Ermis (tel. 01/411-5200); Enotita (tel. 01/645-9000); Kifissia (tel. 01/801-8820 or 01/801-2270); Kosmos (tel. 01/420-7244, 01/420-7261, or 01/420-7247); Parthenon (tel. 01/581-1809); and Piraeus I (tel. 01/413-5888 or 01/418-2333). Most taxi drivers are honest and hardworking, but a few con artists infiltrate the ranks at the airports and near popular restaurants and clubs frequented by foreigners. Make sure the driver turns on the meter and that the rate listed in the lower corner is 1, the normal rate before midnight. Don't be alarmed if your driver picks up other passengers (although protocol indicates he should ask your permission first). Each passenger pays full fare for the distance he or she has traveled. The fare begins at 200 dr., and even if you join other passengers, you must add this charge to the final amount: note the fare on the meter when you get in an occupied taxi. The rate is 58 dr. per kilometer, 113 dr. between midnight and 5 AM. Surcharges are made for holidays (100 dr.), fares from, not to, the airport (300 dr.); fares from ports, railway stations, and bus terminals (160 dr.); and for each bag weighing more than 10 kilograms (55 dr.). Waiting time is 2,000 dr. per hour. Taxi drivers know the major central hotels, but if your hotel is less well known, show the driver the address written in Greek and make note of the phone number and if possible a nearby landmark. If all else fails, the driver can call from a periptero. Athens has thousands of short side streets, and few taxi drivers have maps. If your driver gets lost despite all precautions, use the time to practice answering personal questions gracefully.

Orientation Many travel agencies offer 4-hour morning bus tours (8,400 dr.), including a guided tour of the Acropolis. Reservations can be made through most hotels or you can contact one of the major travel agencies: American Express (Ermou 2, tel. 01/324-4975, fax 01/322-7893); Amphitrion Holidays (Karageorgi Servias 2, tel. 01/322-8884 through 8887, fax 01/323-0370; Deuteras Merachias 3, Piraeus, tel. 01/411-2045 through 01/411-2049, fax 01/417-0742; and Karageorgi Servias 4, tel. 01/323-0344, fax 01/323-1295); CHAT Tours (Stadiou 4, tel. 01/322-2886, fax 01/323-5770); Key Tours (Kallirois 4, tel. 01/923-3166, fax 01/923-2008); Magic Bus (Filellinon 20, tel. 01/323-7471, fax 01/322-0219); Travel Plan (Christou Lada 9, tel. 01/323-8801 through 01/323-8804 and 01/324-0224/5, fax 01/322-2152); and Carolson WagonLit (Karageorgi Servias 2, tel. 01/324-7196, fax 01/322-0397). Personal Guides Major agencies can provide English-speaking guides. The Association of Guides (Apollonas 9A, tel. 01/322-9705) provides licensed guides for individual or group tours, starting at about 22,000 dr. including taxes for a 4-hour tour of the Acropolis and its museum. It is advisable to arrange for a guide through a reliable agency; be sure to hire one licensed by the EOT (Greek National Tourist Organization; tel. 01/322-2545, tel. 01/961-2722, or tel. 01/413-5716). Special-Interest Tours Athens by Night tours, offered by all agencies, are a convenient way to see some of the evening entertainment, especially for single travelers who may not want to venture out alone. For those interested in folk dancing, there is a 4-hour evening tour (8,200 dr.) from April to October, which includes the Sound and Light Spectacle and a performance of Dora Stratou folk dances. Another evening tour follows the Sound and Light Spectacle with a dinner show at a Plaka taverna (11,300 dr.) Any travel agency can arrange these tours, but go first to CHAT Tours (Stadiou 4, tel. 01/322-2886, fax 01/323-5770) for reliable and efficient service. The Amphitrion Holidays agency (Karageorgi Servias 2, tel. 01/322-8884 through 8887, fax 01/323-0370; Deuteras Merachias 3, Piraeus, tel. 01/411-2045 through 01/411-2049, fax 01/417-0742; and Karageorgi Servias 4, tel. 01/323-0344, fax 01/323-1295) specializes in educational and offbeat tours for individuals in Athens and elsewhere, including island-hopping tours and treks in the Pindos mountains. Excursions Most agencies offer excursions at about the same prices, but CHAT (Stadiou 4, tel. 01/322-2886, fax 01/323-5770) is reputed to have the best service and guides. Taking a half-day trip to the breathtaking Temple of Poseidon at Sounion avoids the hassle of dealing with the crowded public buses or paying a great deal more for a taxi. The 6,400-dr. cost is well spent. A 1-day tour to Delphi with lunch costs 17,900 dr. (15,900 dr. without lunch), but the 2-day tour (29,500 dr.) is far preferable. There's also a 1-day tour to Mycenae and Epidauros (17,900 dr. with lunch). There's a 2-day tour to ancient Corinth, Mycenae, Nauplion, and Epidaurus (29,500 dr. including half-board). A 3-day tour takes in both Delphi and the stunning monasteries of Meteora with half-board in first-class hotels (73,000 dr.). A full-day cruise from Piraeus, visiting three nearby islands--Aegina, Poros, and Hydra--costs around 16,000 dr. (including buffet lunch on the ship).

Banks Banks are normally open Monday-Thursday 8-2, Friday 8-1:30. The Ionian Bank of Greece (in the Athens Hilton, Vasilissis Sofias 46, tel. 01/722-1182) stays open Mon.-Fri. 8-2 and 3-9, and the National Bank of Greece (Syntagma Sq., tel. 01/323-6481) has weekend hours for foreign exchange only (Sat. 9-3, Sun. 9-1). Hotels and tourist shops also will cash traveler's checks on weekends. Churches and Monasteries There is absolutely no rhyme or reason to when churches and monasteries are open to the public. The best time to find churches unlocked is during mass, especially on Sunday; otherwise try from about 8 AM to noon and 5:30 to 7:30 on any day, unless where noted. The hours for monasteries are dependent upon their keepers, but they are more likely to be open in the morning to early afternoon. Museums and Sites The days and hours for museums and sites vary; they are usually open daily 8-3 except one weekday (usually Monday), although in summer, depending on personnel available that year, the hours are extended to as late as 7 PM. The Acropolis is open summer evenings when there is a full moon. On major holidays, most sites and museums are closed; on minor holidays they may have Sunday hours or close at 12:30. The Byzantine Museum, Kerameikos cemetery, and Agora Museum are closed Monday; the Goulandris Museum of Cycladic Art is closed Tuesday and Sunday. Admission to most museums and archaeological sites is free on Sunday November through mid-March. Shops Nominally, shops are open Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday 9-3 (8:30-3 in summer); Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday 9-3 (8:30-3 in summer) and 5:30-8:30 (5:30-9 in summer). Supermarkets are open Monday through Saturday 8-8. Be warned that shop hours are liable to change at any moment. In tourist areas, shops are allowed to extend their hours; those in Plaka, Athens's popular tourist bazaar, stay open until late into the night.

Greek is the native language not only of Greece but also of Cyprus, parts of Chicago, and Astoria, New York. Though it's a byword for incomprehensible ("it was all Greek to me," says Casca in Shakespeare's Julius Caesar), much of the difficulty for native English speakers lies in its different alphabet. Not all the 24 Greek letters have precise English equivalents, and there is usually more than one way to spell a Greek word in English. For instance, the letter delta sounds like the English letters "dh", and the sound of the letter gamma may be transliterated as a "g," "gh," or "y." Because of this, the Greek for Holy Trinity might appear in English as Agia Triada, Aghia Triada, Ayia Triada, or even (if the initial aspiration and the dh are used) Hagia Triadha. It seems complicated, but don't let it throw you. With a little time spent learning the alphabet and some basic phrases, you can acquire enough Greek to navigate--i.e., exchange greetings, find a hotel room, and get from one town to another. Many Greeks know some English, but will appreciate a two-way effort. If you only have 15 minutes to learn Greek, memorize the following: miláte angliká? (do you speak English?); den katalavéno (I don't understand); parakaló (please/you're welcome); signómi (excuse me), efharistó (thank you); pósso? (how much?); pou eéne ee trápeza? (where is the bank?), ...ee toiléta? (...the toilet?), ...to tahidromío? (...the post office?); kaliméra (good morning), kalispéra (good evening), kaliníhta (good night).

Post offices are generally open weekdays 8-2. The main post offices in Athens (Aeolou 100 and Syntagma Sq.) are open weekdays 7:30 AM-8 PM, Saturday 7:30-2, and Sunday 9-1:30. Airmail letters and postcards to North America weighing up to 20 grams cost 150 dr.; 240 dr. for 50 grams (120 and 200 dr. to the United Kingdom and Europe). If you are mailing a package, you must bring it open with your wrapping materials to the post office so it can be inspected. Receiving Mail You can have your mail sent to the American Express office in Athens (Ermou 2, 10225 Athens). The service is free for cardholders or those with AmEx traveler's checks; otherwise, there is a 400 dr. charge for each pickup. Any Greek post office will hold your mail, if the address includes the words "poste restante," though you need your passport to collect the letters. The address of the main Athens post office is Aeolou 100, 10200 Athens.

The drachma (dr.) is the Greek unit of currency. Bills are in denominations of 10,000, 5,000, 1,000, and 500 drachmas (100- and 50-drachma bills are going to be taken out of circulation). Coins are 100, 50, 20, 10, 5. Costs Although prices have risen since Greece joined the EC, Athens will seem inexpensive to travelers from the U.S. and Great Britain. Though the price of eating in a restaurant has increased over the past several years, it remains a bargain. Hotels are generally reasonably priced, and the extra cost of accommodations in a luxury hotel, compared to an average hotel, often seems unwarranted. Transportation is a good deal in Greece. Bus and train tickets are inexpensive, though renting a car is costly; there are relatively cheap--and slow--ferries to the islands, and express boats and hydrofoils that cost more. Some sample prices: admission to archaeological sites, 500 dr.-2,000 dr.; authentic Greek sponge, 2,000 dr.; coffee, 400 dr.-700 dr.; beer (500 ml), 500 dr.-800 dr.; Coca-Cola, 300 dr.; spinach pie, 250 dr.; taxi ride, about 1,700 dr. from the airport to downtown Athens; local bus, 75 dr. in one zone; foreign newspaper, 400 dr.-700 dr. Taxes Taxes are always included in the stated price, unless otherwise noted. HOTEL An 8% government tax, 4.5% local tax, and 1.2% stamp tax (total 13.7%) is added to the bill, though usually the rate quoted to you will include the taxes. Ask. VAT Value-added tax, ranging from 8% to 36% is included in the cost of hotels, restaurant meals, car rentals, and most consumer products. As an individual, you may get a VAT refund on products worth 40,000 dr. or more bought in Greece from stores that have a tax-free sticker in their window. The shop will give you an application, which you must fill out and show at Greek Customs, along with the item to prove you are taking it out of the country. Customs--at the airport or port--will stamp the paper, which you then must send back to the shop. Within a month or so, they will refund your money through the Greek post office.

Greek dress tends to be middle of the road--you won't see patched jeans or expensive suits, though locals tend to dress up for nightclubs and bouzoukia. In the summer bring lightweight, casual clothing and good walking shoes. A light sweater or jacket is a must for cool evenings. There's no need for rain gear in high summer, but don't forget sunglasses and a sun hat. Be prepared for cooler weather and some rain in spring and fall, and in winter, add a warm coat. Casual attire is acceptable everywhere except in the most expensive restaurants in large cities, but you should dress conservatively when visiting churches or monasteries. Some stricter monasteries and churches will not admit improperly dressed men or women (men wearing shorts and women in pants), though they often provide long skirts or some sort of draping at the entrance. Revealing too much skin may lead to unwelcome harassment. For dimly lit icons in churches, a small flashlight comes in handy. A pair of opera glasses can greatly enhance the appreciation of an archaeological site or give the tourist a better view of wall paintings in a church, for example. Electricity To use your U.S.-purchased electric-powered equipment, bring a converter and an adapter. The electrical current in Greece is 220 volts, 50 cycles alternating current (AC); wall outlets take Continental-type plugs, with two round prongs.

U.S. Citizens All U.S., Canadian, and U.K. citizens need only a valid passport to enter Greece for stays of up to 90 days.

Athens has a low crime rate, with serious crimes rare, although the number of bank robberies has gone up in the last five years. You will often see people sitting at cafés with their handbag carelessly dangling over chairs, or women and elderly people walking home late at night. If you take the normal precautions of carrying your money in a security pouch, and if you avoid isolated places at night, you should have little problem. If you feel unsure about the safety of an area, ask your hotel before setting out. For example, in the last few years, crime has gone up around Omonia Square in Athens, because of the large transient population that congregates there. In general, women traveling alone are safe in Greece, though Greek men will try to talk to them, especially if they look foreign. It's best to do as the Greek women do, and ignore the amorous overtures; responding will only be interpreted as a sign that you're interested. If you feel threatened, don't hesitate to shout; this will be enough to scare off most offenders. Greeks, especially in Athens, where people are out until all hours, will usually come to your aid. One way to avoid unwanted advances is to try to blend in with the Greeks: dress as they do, walk like you know where you're going, and don't openly carry a map or a foreign newspaper. If you are taking a taxi at night, the driver won't usually pick up a male passenger; if he does, he is obligated to ask your permission.

The country code for Greece is 30; the city code for Athens is 01. For an AT&T long-distance operator, dial 00/800-1311; MCI, 00/800-1211; Sprint, 00/800-1411. The Greek telephone company, the OTE (pronounced "oh-tay"), has card phones virtually everywhere, though some may not be in working order. Phone cards (up to 10,000 dr.) used for intercity and overseas calls can be purchased at kiosks or the local OTE office. You can also make calls from OTE offices, which tend to have limited hours, and from kiosks (a local call is about 20 dr.) Avoid making calls from your hotel, where the surcharge can be quite hefty. For any international call, you must first dial 00, then the country code (1 for the U.S. and Canada, 44 for England). For long distance calls it's best to avoid the kiosk and hotel phones and use the metered phones at the OTE offices or buy a calling card. Doing business over the phone in Greece can be extremely frustrating--the lines always seem to be busy, and English-speaking operators and clerks are few. You may also find people too busy to address your problem--the independent-minded Greeks are not very service-conscious. It is far better to develop a relationship with someone, for example a travel agent, to get information about train schedules and the like, or to go in person and ask for information face-to-face. Though OTE is updating its archaic phone system, it may take you several attempts to get through. Try dialing slowly, and if you get a wrong number, don't assume it's your mistake--the lines frequently get crossed. Don't discuss highly sensitive matters on the phone; party lines are still a social hazard in Greece. Local and international calls are cheaper in the evenings (after 10 or 11 PM, depending on where you're calling, and on the weekends after 3 PM on Saturday). Operators and Information There are English-speaking operators on the International Exchange (tel. 161 and 162), and recorded instructions in English, French, and German for making direct international calls on tel. 169.

How much to tip in Greece, especially at restaurants, is confusing. By law a 15% service charge is figured into the price of a meal (menus sometimes list entrées with and without service, to let you know their net cost--not to imply you have a choice of how much to pay), so, technically, you don't have to leave any additional tip. If the service was poor or the waiter rude (very unlikely), you are not obligated to do so, but if the service was good, it's customary to reward it by leaving 10% more. For taxis, round up the fare to the nearest 50 dr. The appropriate tip for maid service at your hotel will depend, of course, on the quality of the service, the length of your stay, and the quality of the hotel. A service charge is included in the price of the room, but you might consider leaving an additional 200 dr. per person per night, or more for an extended stay. Porters, found only at the more expensive hotels, should get 100 dr.-200 dr. per bag, and hatcheck persons would like the same amount. For rest-room attendants 100 dr. is appropriate.

In Athens There are Greek National Tourist Organization (EOT) offices near Constitution Square (Karageorgi Servias 2 in the National Bank of Greece, tel. 01/322-2545); at the East Terminal of Ellinikon Airport (tel. 01/961-2722); and on the Piraeus Harbor (EOT Building, 1st Floor, Zea Marina, tel. 01/413-5716. The tourist police (Dimitrakopoulou 77, tel. 171) can answer questions in English about transportation, steer you to an open pharmacy or doctor, and locate phone numbers of hotels and restaurants. At Home Contact the EOT (Greek National Tourist Organization) at the addresses below. IN THE U.S. 645 5th Ave., New York, NY 10022, tel. 212/421-5777, fax 212/826-6940; 611 W. 6th St., Suite 2198, Los Angeles, CA 90017, tel. 213/626-6696, fax 213/489-9744; 168 N. Michigan Ave., Suite 600, Chicago, IL 60601, tel. 312/782-1084, fax 312/782-1091. IN CANADA 1233 Rue de la Montagne, Suite 101, Montréal, Québec H3G 1Z2, tel. 514/871-1535, fax 514/871-1498; 1300 Bay St., Toronto, Ontario M5R 3K8, tel. 416/968-2220, fax 416/968-6533. IN THE U.K. 4 Conduit St., London W1R 0DJ, tel. 0171/734-5997. Travel Agencies American Express (Ermou 2, tel. 01/324-4975, fax 01/322-7893); Amphitrion Holidays (Karageorgi Servias 2, tel. 01/322-8884 through 8887, fax 01/323-0370; Deuteras Merachias 3, Piraeus, tel. 01/411-2045 through 01/411-2049, fax 01/417-0742; and Karageorgi Servias 4, tel. 01/323-0344, fax 01/323-1295); CHAT Tours (Stadiou 4, tel. 01/322-2886, fax 01/323-5770); Key Tours (Kallirois 4, tel. 01/923-3166, fax 01/923-2008); Magic Bus (Filellinon 20, tel. 01/323-7471, fax 01/322-0219); Travel Plan (Christou Lada 9, tel. 01/323-8801 through 01/323-8804 and 01/324-0224/5, fax 01/322-2152); and Carolson WagonLit (Karageorgi Servias 2, tel. 01/324-7196, fax 01/322-0397). Near Omonia, try Condor Travel (Stadiou 43, tel. 01/321-2453, fax 321-4296), and Pharos Travel and Tourism (18 Triti Septemvriou, tel. 01/523-3403 and 01/523-6142, fax 01/523-6261). In New York Pharos Travel and Tourism (230 W. 31st St., tel. 212/736-6070, fax 212/736-3921) can help you put together an independent tour at competitive prices.