Bajazzo Anapafseos 14, Mets, Athens Phone: 01/921-3013

If you have only one big splurge in Athens, have it here, one of the finest restaurants anywhere. The main dining room is a joyful explosion of scents and colors, and the menu constantly changes as Chef Klaus Feuerbach experiments with wildly imaginative creations. Dishes are brought to your table for your inspection: appetizers may include a heavenly seafood bisque or porcini mushrooms and pine nuts layered in crepes and served with basil sauce. Also delectable are the beef fillets layered with foie gras and served with cognac-cream sauce; the sole with smoked salmon mousse, mascarpone cheese, and chive sauce; and duck breast with crème de bananes (banana liqueur). Leave room for dessert: various stunning chocolate masterpieces or lighter fruit dishes such as pears stewed in mavrodaphne (a sweet red wine) with herb ice cream. AE, DC, V. Reservations essential; for lunch, you must call one day before. Closed Sun.

Kona Kai Ledra Marriott Hotel, Syngrou 115, near Neos Kosmos Athens Phone: 01/934-7711

A setting of tropical luxury and almost 60 Polynesian dishes make one feel pampered. Choosing from the Royal Luau menu is an easy way to sample a cross section of sumptuous fare, or try something from the Japanese teppanyaki menu, prepared in front of you at tables for 24. Memorable dishes include the shrimp with Kenya beans and red curry sauce, the mango beef, and for dessert, chocolate cake laced with Kahlúa and topped with chocolate sauce and strawberries. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and mid-Aug. No lunch.

Rose Kifissias 227, in the Anavrita shopping center, Maroussi Athens Phone: 01/612-3051 through 01/612-3053

Though slightly out of the way for visitors, this bar and restaurant has become a favorite among Greek yuppies--media stars, political consultants, and young entrepreneurs. Despite the occasionally indifferent service, the food is excellent--shrimp carpaccio, quail stuffed with foie gras, salmon in pastry with champagne sauce. For dessert, opt for the white- and dark-chocolate mousse. AE, DC, V. Reservations essential. Closed Sun. No lunch.

Boschetto Alsos Evangelismos, near the Hilton Athens Phone: 01/721-0893

Set in the Evangelismos park, Boschetto pampers diners with a soothing view, an expert maître d', and creative Italian nouvelle cuisine: You'll forget you're in the center of Athens. The specialty here is fresh pasta dishes such as tagliatelle with fresh squid and zucchini; ravioli with spinach, anthotiro (a creamy Greek cheese), foie gras, and poppy seeds; and penne with pecorino and artichokes. Popular entrées are beef fillet with rosemary, green peppers, and garlic or with black truffles and red wine. There are a few Italian wines on the list; surprisingly good is Boschetto's grappa. The tables tend to be close together and some are ill-placed; try to reserve near the window looking out on the park. In summer, the courtyard is open. AE, V. Reservations essential. Closed Sun. and 2 wks. in Aug. No lunch winter.

Far East Stadiou 7, just off Constitution Sq. Athens Phone: 01/623-3140 through 01/623-3144

Many Chinese restaurants in Athens tend to be overpriced yet mediocre. If you must indulge, though, you can't go wrong here. At both branches the decor (birdcages, aquarium) and the service (waitresses in vermilion sheaths) are a cut above that at other establishments. Choose from the more than 100 items--hot-and-sour vegetable soup, crab and cheese wontons, cashew shrimp, and almond chicken--all somewhat authentic and good. The restaurants also serve some Korean dishes, such as kimchee, or spicy cabbage, and Japanese sushi and sashimi. On Sunday the Kefalari restaurant hosts a reasonably priced breakfast buffet. For dessert, there's the ubiquitous fried banana served with ice cream. A second location is at Deligianni 54, Kefalari, tel. 01/623-3140 through 01/623-3144. AE, DC, MC, V.

Fourtouna Anapiron Polemou 22, Kolonaki Athens Phone: 01/722-1282

This restaurant excels in fresh seafood, and it's no surprise to see the handsome dining rooms in this restored 1930s house perpetually crammed. A wood boat in the front hall is a buffet area, displaying the main dishes. The splendid karavides (crayfish), grilled or steamed, are tender-sweet morsels served simply with a butter sauce and lemon. Thalassina (fluted clamlike shellfish) are a rare treat. The barreled white wine from an Attic village has a fine bouquet, and there are excellent small Greek wine producers on the list. DC, V. Reservations essential for dinner. Closed Sun. (except in winter, when they open for dinner) and Aug. No lunch Mon.-Sat.

Kaldera Leoforos Poseidonos 54, Palio Faliro Athens Phone: 01/982-9647

Dedicated to island dishes not found at most tavernas, this restaurant brings back fond memories to those who love the Greek islands. Although technically a mezedopolio (with about 45 starters), it serves very good, reasonably priced seafood. Amid the blue and white decor and ship pictures, diners can indulge in such specialties as the Mytilini plate, 12 kinds of fish fried with fresh tomato sauce and doused with Ricard and wine, gavros (fresh anchovy) marinated in vinegar from Salamina, and steaming hot mussels in mustard sauce from Skopelos. That's just for starters; if you can manage an entrée, try the makaronada thalassina (al dente pasta with crab, shrimp, and mussels) or any of the fresh catch, straight from the Aegean (many of today's fish are cultivated): sargus, sole, sea bream, and monkfish. The wine list, though limited, features island wines. If you need help making a selection, the waiters are happy to make recommendations. AE, DC, MC, V.

Kollias Stratigou Plastira 3, Tabouria Piraeus Phone: 01/462-9620

The restaurant's terrace, with pots of geraniums and jasmine, evokes Athens in the 60s. Friendly owner Tassos Kollias has a way with seafood, often creating his own dishes that range from the humble to the aristocratic, from marinated gavros to lobster with tomato, basil, cardamom, and pasta. Try the grilled scorpion fish flavored with mastic, the flambéed mackerel, or mussels stuffed with rice, grapes, and pine nuts. Besides piping-hot tomato and other vegetable croquettes, there are large mixed salads with white beets, arugula, lettuce, parsley, caper leaves, endive, and radishes. A fitting end to such a meal is the loukoumades, best with the kumquat liqueur. If you have trouble getting to the area, the owner will arrange for a taxi to pick you up. AE, DC, MC, V. Reservations essential on weekends. Closed Sun. and 3 wks. in Aug. No lunch May-Sept.

Mavri Gida (Black Goat) Akti Koumoundourou 64, Piraeus Piraeus Phone: 01/422-0691

Also known as Kavos, this restaurant is one of few in the Mikrolimano area with a Greek clientele. It has a wide selection of such fresh fish and seafood as barbouni (red mullet), lithrini (sea bream), and calamari. Since grade-A fish and lobster are expensive, it's a good idea to make your choice from the refrigerated compartments, then have it weighed, so you'll know the exact price in advance. Specialties include a thick seafood crepe, conch with various shellfish, and garides yiouvetsi (shrimp baked in a casserole with feta, tomato sauce, and tiny noodles called kritharakia). Game--wild pig and deer--is also served. AE, DC, MC, V.

Melrose Zosimadou 16, at the top of the stairs off Kallidromiou 68, Exarchia Athens Phone: 01/825-1627

An anomaly in the student neighborhood of Exarchia, this restaurant has had great success with its "Pacific Rim" cuisine. Its understated style punctuated with modern art is the work of Yiannis Tsanaklidis; his brother Aris, a former chef in Beverly Hills and Maui, runs the kitchen. Delight your palate with choices ranging from chicken fajitas to duck breast with wild rice and kumquats to salmon seared and served with ponzu (Japanese sake-soy-scallion sauce). The Kaiseki plate includes swordfish carpaccio, shrimp kinzu (with a tart citrus-lemongrass-ginger sauce), and fish paté with Vietnamese fish sauce. Service is impeccable: if your delectable chocolate soufflé is the slightest bit deflated, they'll bake you another one. In summer, the restaurant moves to Glyfada. AE, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch.

Prunier Ipsilantou 63, Kolonaki Athens Phone: 01/722-7379

This cozy French bistro accented with copper utensils, antiques, and tasteful art nouveau exudes romance. The repertoire is solid French standards such as coq au vin and snails bourguignonne and original concoctions like quail salmnis (with oregano and lemon) and delice des amoureux (sautéed seafood laced with cognac in a vol-au-vent). AE, D, MC, V. Reservations essential. Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch.

Symposio Erechthiou 46, Makriyanni Athens Phone: 01/922-5321, reservations 01/996-0501

This restored 1920s house near the Herod Atticus theater has a spacious garden and a cheerful front bar now a late-night gathering place for the Athens intelligentsia. Symposio blends the familiar with the new in unexpected ways. Pasta with Metsovone cheese, fillets of St. Peter fish with saffron, breast of duck with cassis or mango sauce, and prawns and caviar with vodka dressing are some of the best dishes that may be offered. Desserts include American cheesecake (hard to find in Greece) and negraki (chocolate cake made with rum and raisins and served with hot chocolate sauce). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun., Greek Easter, and 2nd wk. of Aug. No lunch.

Varoulko Deligeorgi 14 Piraeus Phone: 01/411-2043

Although the restaurant has moved to larger quarters with a courtyard, it often still has a line of customers waiting outside to sample Lefteris Lazarou's acclaimed version of the humble monkfish. It's the only whole fish he serves, and he does it grilled, à la crème, and most popularly, steamed with vegetables. If you don't like monkfish, the chef and owner has a mouth-watering array of other seafood dishes: skaltsouni (pastry stuffed with fresh shrimp and crab), smoked swordfish, baby squid with pesto, and lobster with wild rice, celery, and champagne sauce. The dessert menu changes often, with various tortes and Greek-style apple pie. AE, V. Reservations essential 2 days in advance. Closed Sun. and Aug. 10-Sept. 10. No lunch.

Vitrina Navarchou Apostoli 7 (off Ermou), Psirri Athens Phone: 01/321-1200

It's obvious this progressive, highly stylized restaurant is the new creation of a fashion photographer--from the stenciled bread baskets to the tiny lights shimmering among a jumble of branches. More food for thought: fragrant bread arrives with both an olive-anchovy-caper spread and cumin-sunflower seed spread. The combinations are bold: crayfish with coffee and coriander, beef filet sautéed in mastic and Vizanto wine sauce. What's more, the Aegean-inspired cooking is light, without much fat. Try the chicken filled with eggplant, dill, and thyme in a buttermilk sauce, or one of the best dishes, lamb with whole mushrooms and red peppers in a sweet-sour port sauce. If it's in season, sample the delicate chestnut mousse; always good is the chocolate cake with vanilla cream and gooseberry sauce. The logically priced wine list features small producers, especially from Santorini. Seating upstairs is best; downstairs is a bit claustrophobic. No credit cards. Reservations essential. Closed Mon. and Aug. No lunch Mon.-Sat. No dinner Sun.

White Elephant Andromeda Hotel, Timoleontos Vassou 22, near American Embassy Athens Phone: 01/643-7302

The Polynesian food at this restaurant rivals that at Kona Kai; also served are some Chinese and Indian dishes. You'll find fresh lobster, perhaps Szechuan style, as well as Phuket fish, sautéed sea bass in ginger and bean sauce, and piquant Thai shrimp. Meat dishes include zesty seared barbecued pork, coconut chicken, spicy Mandarin beef, and tea-smoked duck with hoisin and oyster sauce, wrapped in pancakes. AE, DC, MC, V. Reservations essential. Closed Sun. and July-Aug. No lunch.

Apotsos Panepistimiou 10, in arcade, Constitution Sq. Athens Phone: 01/363-7046
This folksy, old ouzeri with bentwood chairs, old posters, and early calendars is reminiscent of the '30s. Full of talkative journalists and politicians, it's lively and crowded, and the food is almost secondary. Saganaki (fried cheese) and gigantes (broad beans in tomato sauce) are typical. Get there early; it closes at 5. No credit cards. Closed Sun. and 2 wks in Aug. No dinner.

Athinaikon Themistokleous 2, Omonia Athens Phone: 01/383-8485

This renowned establishment moved here after almost 60 years near the law courts, and it is still a favorite of attorneys and local office workers. The decor is no-nonsense ouzeri, with rectangular marble tables, dark wood, and framed memorabilia. Abide by the classic specialties: crisp shrimp croquettes, swordfish souvlaki with bay leaves and a light mustard sauce, and ameletita (sautéed testicles). A favorite new dish is patsage (dried, spiced meat called pastourmas wrapped in phyllo with cheese and tomato). All go well with the light barrel red. No credit cards. Closed Sun. and Aug.

Botsaris Zisimopoulou 24, Palio Faliro Athens Phone: 01/941-3022
Tucked away in a residential area, this bustling corner restaurant is a welcome alternative to the usual pricey seafood spots. Try grilled octopus, fish soup with large chunks of seafood and shrimp, or one of many fresh catches--red mullet, sea bream, and grouper. Service is friendly and prompt. AE, DC, V. Closed 2 wks in Aug. No lunch Mon.-Sat. No dinner Sun.

Famagusta Zagoras 8 (end of Michalachopoulou), Ambelokopi Athens Phone: 01/778-5229

The Mediterranean and Middle East have both influenced Cypriot cuisine, resulting in the tasty assortment of mezes. Famagusta is romantic, with candlelit tables and Cypriot handicrafts: baskets, colorful weavings, and ceramics. A guitarist and a bouzouki player discreetly sing Greek and Cypriot favorites, and later the dance floor is packed. The seftalia (minced meat wrapped in suet), ofton (lamb in pastry cooked in a ceramic dish), tabbouleh salad with cracked wheat, and lounza (a thick smoked pork fillet spiced with coriander) are some recommended treats. DC, MC. No lunch.

Ideal Panepistimiou 46, Omonia Athens Phone: 01/330-3000

The original Ideal burned down after almost 70 years, and its art deco protégé is in bright contrast. The oldest restaurant in the city center, it has a following for the quality and variety of its more than 20 daily specials such as mussel souvlaki and leek croquettes. Best bets on the regular menu are the piquant mincemeat kebab, the juicy baby lamb wrapped in phyllo, and the Smyrnaika tsoutsoukakia (spicy sausage patties liberally seasoned with cinnamon) spiced with ouzo and rosemary. The service is fast but fastidious, and almost everyone speaks English. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Kafenio Loukianou 26, Kolonaki Athens Phone: 01/722-9056
A Kolonaki institution, this ouzeri is slightly fancier than the norm, with cloth napkins and a handsome dark wood interior. The menu is enormous, with many unusual creations. The tender marinated octopus, fried eggplant, and the onion pie are good choices. No credit cards. Closed Sun. and Aug.

Kostoyannis Zaimi 37, Pedion Areos, behind the Archaeological Museum Athens Phone: 01/821-2496
If you're looking for authenticity, this is the place to go. One of the oldest and most popular tavernas in the area, it has an impressively wide range of Greek dishes--including shrimp salads, stuffed mussels, rabbit stifado (a baked stew of meat, white wine, garlic, cinnamon, and spices), and sautéed sweetbreads. No credit cards. Closed Sun. and mid-July-mid Aug. No lunch.

Manessis Markou Moussourou 3, Mets Athens Phone: 01/922-7684

One of the best of the old-time haunts, Manessis is a homey garden in summer and several rooms of a little house in winter. A waiter brings you a long wooden tray with appetizers to choose from, including smoked herring, sausage, which he'll fry right at the table, and black-eyed peas. Specialties include Zakinthos-style veal, shrimp saganaki, gardoumba (spit-roasted innards and meat), swordfish, and chicken souvlaki. The owner has added more vegetarian dishes like falafel, hummus, and tabbouleh; sweets, include hasissame (ice cream served on a cake soaked in syrup). No credit cards. Closed 2 wks in Aug. No lunch.

Michiko Kidathineon 27, Plaka Athens Phone: 01/322-0980
This reliable favorite, set in a gracious Plaka mansion with a garden shaded by a giant fig tree, has been around for more than 20 years, serving decorative, meticulously prepared Japanese dishes. An authentic sushi and sashimi bar has its own chef. Special menus offer a sampling of some of the best dishes. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

Socrates' Prison Mitseon 20, Makriyanni Athens Phone: 01/922-3434

At this taverna near the Herod Atticus theater, you will often hobnob with actors. Tables are street-side in summer; but sit inside for quiet conversation. In cooler months, the action moves to the cozy room upstairs with a fireplace. Amiable owner Socrates--whose motto is "I never take a dish away; I just keep adding new ones"--makes many unusual dishes, including his own special salad with dill, carrots, olives, and eggs; spicy stuffed pita bread; bourekaki (fritters) with eggplant, parsley, and onion; zucchini with ham and bacon topped with béchamel; and pork rolls stuffed with carrots and celery in lemon sauce. AE, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.

Ta Tria Tetarta Oikonomou 25, Exarchia Athens Phone: 01/823-0560

There's something dollhouse-like about this tri-level stone and wood interior with nooks and crannies, a fireplace, and Greek knickknacks. The appetizers served here are usually hard to find: spicy feta sprinkled with red pepper and roasted in foil, cheese bread, skewered seftalies (a tasty mix of lamb liver bits and onions wrapped in intestines), seafood pie, and Turkish favorites such as yogurt and sausage salad. No credit cards. Closed Aug.

Vlassis Armatolon and Klefton 20, Ambelokipi Athens Phone: 01/642-5337

Relying on traditional recipes from Thrace, Roumeli, Thessaly, and the islands, the cooks here whip up Greek home cooking in generous portions that more than make up for the daunting noise level. The best way to sample as much as possible is to order several appetizers for a meal (there are more than 20, all reasonably priced). Essentials include the spicy cheese salad, marinated eggplant, pastitsio (a casserole of pasta, meat and cheese with seasonings and cinnamon) with bits of liver, and the octopus stifado, tender and sweet with lots of onions. Also good are the kebabs, seftalies, oven-baked pork, and katsiki ladorigani (goat with oil and oregano). Fresh fish is also served, and for dessert, the galaktobouriko (custard in phyllo) is delicious. In summer, the restaurant moves to Mt. Athos in northern Greece. DC, MC, V. Reservations essential. Closed Sun. and July-Sept. No lunch.

Xynos Aggelou Geronda 4, Plaka (entrance down the walkway next to Glikis kafenion) Athens Phone: 01/322-1065

Stepping into the courtyard of this Plaka taverna is like entering a time warp: Athens in the '50s. According to loyal customers, nothing's changed much since then, including the excellent food. Start with the classic appetizer of stuffed grape leaves, then move on to the taverna's forte--cooked dishes such as lamb yiouvetsi, livers with sweetbreads in vinegar and oregano, and tsoutsoukakia. In summer, tables move outside; year-round, roving musicians charm the crowd as they croon ballads of yesteryear. No credit cards. Closed weekends and part of July. No lunch.

Balkoni Tou Immitou Pavlou Mela 13, Karea (take Bus 203 from Acadimias to Byzantio stop) Athens Phone: 01/764-0240
This large, unpretentious place has a huge balcony on a hill, with panoramic views of the Saronic Gulf islands. It's known to few tourists, though the waiters speak some English. The extensive menu covers the standards, plus quail, partridge, and rabbit stew, and gardoumba, which tastes much better than it looks. No credit cards. No lunch except holidays and Sun.

Karavitis Arktinou 35 and Pausaniou 4, Pangrati Athens Phone: 01/721-5155

In this neighborhood favorite near the Panathenaic Stadium, the winter dining room is insulated with huge wine casks, and in summer there's garden seating; get there early so you don't end up at the noisy sidewalk tables. The classic Greek cuisine is well prepared, including pungent tzatziki, bekri meze (lamb chunks in spicy red sauce), and stamnaki (beef baked in a clay pot). No credit cards. Closed Greek Easter. No lunch.

O Platanos Diogenous 4, Plaka Athens Phone: 01/322-0666

Set on a picturesque corner, this is one of the oldest tavernas in Plaka, and it's a welcome sight compared with the many overpriced tourist traps in the area. It has a shady courtyard for outdoor dining. Don't miss the oven-baked potatoes, roasted lamb, and the exceptionally cheap but delicious barrel retsina. Although not much English is spoken, the staff is extremely friendly; you can always go back to the kitchen and point to what you want. No credit cards. Closed Sun.

Pandelis Naiadon 96, Palio Faliro Athens Phone: 01/982-5512

The proprietor and chef's grandfather owned the legendary Pandelis in Istanbul, and this one is a real find: the tables are set among greenery on a quiet side street and the waiters are courteous and helpful. Among the entrées are eggplant with garlic and tomato named Imam Bayildi (the cleric fainted)--presumably because the dish was so delicious--and the pièce de résistance: yaourtlu kebab (skewered lamb and beef with a zesty yogurt sauce). Try kavuk gogsu (an unusual chicken-based dessert pudding). DC, MC. No lunch weekdays. No dinner Sun.

Salamandra Mantzarou 3, Kolonaki Athens Phone: 01/361-7927

In this bi-level house, the seating is at wooden tables in comfy nooks, with a fireplace lit downstairs in winter, and air-conditioning in summer. Salamandra has a reputation for well-prepared mezes (more than 60), like the tsirosalata, (tiny fish marinated in vinegar), eggplant croquettes, and haloumi (fried mild Cypriot cheese). Draft beer and barrel wine are available. V. Closed Sun. in winter; in summer, closed dinner, weekends, and Aug. 10-20.

Sigalas Monastiraki Sq. 2 Athens Phone: 01/321-3036

Run by the Bairaktaris family for more than a century, this is the best place to eat in Monastiraki Square. After admiring the painted wine barrels and black-and-white snapshots of Greek film stars, go to the window case to view the day's magirefta (stove-top cooked dish, usually made earlier)--beef kokkinisto (stew with red sauce), tsoutsoukakia spiked with cloves--or sample the gyro platter. Appetizers include small cheese pies with sesame seeds, tender mountain greens, and fried zucchini with a garlicky dip. No credit cards.

To Karafaki Moustoxidi 19, Pedion Areos Athens Phone: 01/641-0192
Relax in this traditional mezedopolio, housed in a neoclassical building with marble tables, rush chairs, and lace curtains. The variety of dishes include vegetable croquettes, stuffed eggplant roll, onion pie, and Cypriot flogeres ("flutes" of ham and melted cheese). No credit cards. Closed Sun. and June-Sept. No lunch.

Vasilenas Etolikou 72, Ayia Sophia Piraeus Phone: 01/461-2457

Longtime residents and frequent visitors rejoice in this precious vestige of the good old days, a family-run taverna that is probably as good a bargain now as it was 60 years ago. The decor is minimal; in summer the operation moves to the upper terrace. Come here ravenously hungry with friends, so you can do justice to the set menu of 16 dishes, brought at a steady stream to your table. Zesty shrimp yiouvetsi and prawn croquettes are two standouts, as is the dessert called tiganites (a sort of fried bread filled with walnuts). No credit cards. Reservations essential for groups and on weekends. Closed Sun. and part of Aug. No lunch.