Santorini

Chromata - "If the Flintstones had money, they'd live in a place like this," is how one guest describes Chromata. Stylish suites are honeycombed into the rock with the picturesque village of Imerovigli as a backdrop and the caldera center stage. Breakfast around the pool which seems to melt into the caldera is an experience you won't easily forget. (Tel: 24850-2. Fax: 23278)

Vedema - A member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World, this exclusive resort caters to those who prefer their holidays served up on a silver platter - or gourmet cuisine served in a candle-lit winery, for that matter. A village within the traditional village of Megalohori, Vedema also offers a pool, jacuzzi, gym, yoga and a meditation center. (Tel: 81786 or, in Athens, 428.7980. Fax: 81798; e-mail: Vedema@one-world.net)

Astra - A fabulous terrace overlooking the rock of Skaros and a staff that really pampers you make Astra a favorite, particularly with honeymooners. Manager George Karayiannis is also the man to contact should you decide to get hitched on holiday in Imerovigli. (Tel: 23641.Fax: 24765)

The Tsitouras Collection - This hotel, converted from an 18th-century mansion, has turned the concept of luxury accommodation into a fine art. Five independent houses showcase the owner's private art collection, from portraits to porcelain. The star-studded visitors book includes Moschino, Jules Dassin, and the Kennedys. Worth it for the vaulted trompe l'oeil bathrooms alone. (Tel: in Athens.362.2326. Fax 363.6738).

Golden Sunset Villas - Perfectly placed to catch Oia's famous sunset and to pick up tourists who throng here to watch the show with eight functional rooms built around a windmill-bar. (Tel: 71001. Fax: 71107)

Kavalari Hotel - An old favorite right in the heart of Fira with a rustic, friendly ambience. (Tel: 22347 and 22455. Fax: 22603; e-mail: kavalari@santonet.gr)

Hotel Cavo Mare - Spectacular views across the caldera to Santorini more than compensate for the suspect 60s decor at Thirassia's only hotel. (Tel: 29121. Fax: 29176)

Jimmy's If you really want to get away from it all, you can also rent a clifftop room at Jimmy's pension in Thirassia. (Tel: 29121. Fax: 29176)

Where to Eat

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Domata Gourmet - Greek served with unpretentious panache. Chef Chrysanthos Karamolegos (of the celebrated Vitrina restaurant in Athens) has a gift for transforming humble local ingredients into delicate palate-teasers. Reservations recommended. Near Monolithos beach. (Tel: 32069)

1800 - One of Santorini's finest restaurants is housed in a beautifully restored sea captain's mansion in Oia. Settle into an antique sofa, soak up the romantic ambience, and tuck into sumptuous Mediterranean cuisine that is as well presented as it is delicious. (Tel: 71485)

Skala - This excellent taverna on a quiet terrace is probably the best-kept culinary secret in Oia. Besides Santorinian specialties like foungato (zucchini frittata) with yogurt sauce, other Mediterranean flavors to savor include shallotand-pine-kernel pastries and seafood pasta. Sophia, the waitress with the sweetest smile, adds a special touch. (Tel: 71362)

Koukoumavios - The ornate interior and sophisticated menu ("monkfish wrapped in kstaifi pastry w1th grilled eggplant and coulis of red peppers") create a perfect setting for a pricey dinner. (Tel: 23807) Koukou, a sister joint in Oia, is equally intimate. (Tel: 71413)

Selene - Another Fira favorite for diners with pretensions, this fancy restaurant tucked away on a terrace far from the madding crowds has been serving nouvelle Greek cuisine for 15 years. (Tel: 22249)

Nikolas - Cheap and cheerful, Fira's oldest koutouki is hard to beat for hearty Greek classics like stuffed tomatoes and beef yiouvetsi. (Tel: 24550)

Aktaion - This tiny oinomageirion with a 70- year history adds a touch of down-home authenticity to classy Firnstefani. (Tel 22336)

Minim's - With a mouthwatering selection of cakes, sweets, tarts, and pies, this lovely verandah enclosed with flowering plants is ideal for a leisurely breakfast or late-night treat. Try the meletinia (Santorinian cupcakes filled with mizythra cheese). Oia main street. (Tel:71149)

Ammoudi Fish Taverna - For fresh seafood, locals go to one of the fish tavernas lining the adorable bay of Ammoudi, below Oia. For grilled balades, octopus, calamari, and all the usual trimmings, you can't beat the excellent Ammoudi or Katina's. (Tel:71280)

Paradisos - Escape to Kyria Roula's country taverna for a taste of real Santorinian cooking. Watch the waves and listen to the caged canaries sing while Roula and her sidekick Anthi prepare you crispy pseftokeftedes (deep-fried whitebait), garden-fresh horta, and chips like mama used to make. To top it all off, they'll offer you a sweet cherry tomato in syrup. Exomitis (Tel: 82052)

Cadouni - If you can muster enough willpower to bypass the swordfish souvlakia sizzling outside the waterfront restaurants, hike up to the clifftop village of Manolas. Then collapse into one of the candy-pink chairs on Cadouni's terrace, order up cold beers, Greek salad, grilled baby octopus, and indulge. It's well worth it. (Tel: 29083)

Oia's Cafe Gallery - In this delightful cafe- gallery on Oia's main street, you can admire the work of local artists and learn about the island's history too. Select a volume from the library and while away the afternoon with a bottle of Sigalas Oia Vareli and a platter of "Volcano Mezes." (Tel: 71504)

Captain Dimitris - A great spot for a lunchtime snack off the beaten track: local wine, great views, and Barbara's homemade chloro cheese. Off season, she'll even roast your fish in an open wood oven. Faros, Akrotiri. (Tel: 82210)

Captain John - A quaint throwback to a bygone era, this seaside joint frequented by fishermen from the little harbor nearby does a rubbery calamari but a creamy frappe. (Tel: 23409)

Saliveros - The only old-time eatery left on Kamari beach. A reliable bet for good, cheap magelrefta. (Tel: 31702)

Skaros - Excellent mezedes on a peaceful verandah perched above the caldera. Imerovigli (Tel: 23616)

Nightlife

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Franco's - Classical music, champagne cocktails, slick waiters, and all-embracing recliners account for the enduring appeal of Santorini's most renowned bar. Still going strong after 20 years - you may even have to reserve a seat at sunset! Fira (Tel: 22881 )

Kira Thira - Live jazz nightly at this cozy watering hole open year round. Fira (Tel: 22770)

Enigma - Join the queue if you want to squeeze your way into Fira's hottest club.

Pondios Ouzeri - At Santorini's only "musical mezedopoleion" a couple of musicians whet your appetite with classic Greek tunes. Kamari (Tel: 33596)

The Greeks - Live rembetika in a pleasant garden on the outskirts of Fira. (Tel: 23541)

What to Buy

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You can buy fava and jars of capers or baby tomatoes in most supermarkets. For local wines, buying directly from the winery of your choice will guarantee quality and value. Fira is overflowing with jewelry stores, while Oia has the best selection of hand- made gifts including icons, weavings, and original artwork. Worth checking out:

Mati - For modern objets d'art by hip Greek designers. Fira (Tel: 24031)

Psyche - For hand-crafted jewelry, ornaments, and paintings. Oia (Tel: 71802)

Meteor - For expensive antiques from far- flung places. Oia main street (Tel: 71015)

What to See

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Akrotiri Archaeological Site - Insights into the everyday life of the ancients, best appreciated in the company of an expert guide. Open 8:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Closed Mondays. (Tel: 81366)

Ancient Thira - Strategically located atop Mesa Vouno mountain between Kamari and Perissa beaches, the impressive site of the ancient capital includes Byzantine remains, Roman baths, a theater, and gymnasium. Open 8:00 a.m.-2:00 p.m.

Archaeological Museum - A wealth of treasures dug up from Ancient Thira and Akrotiri, including marble "Korea," devotional figurines, and archaic pottery. Fira. Open 8:30 a.m.-3:00 p.m. Closed Mondays. (Tel: 22217)

Megaron Ghyzi Museum - An eclectic collection of old manuscripts, maps, archival photos, and modern Greek paintings inspired by Santorini adorn this fine mansion in Fira. Open 1 0:30 a.m.- 1:30 p.m. & 5:00-8:00 p.m. (Tel: 22244 and 22721)

Thira Wall Paintings Exhibition - A rare chance to admire all 32 of the wall paintings from Akrotiri excavated to date, many of which are now in the Archaeological Museum in Athens. The vaulted tunnels of the Petros Nomikos Conference Center - a converted winery in Fira - provide a stunning setting for these amazing reproductions, revealing the artistic mastery and advanced society of Thira's earliest settlers. (Tel: 23016-9)

Maritime Museum - Old maps, nautical instruments, photographs, and other maritime memorabilia from Oia's former shipping fleet. Open 12:30-4:00 p.m. & 5- 8:30 p.m. Closed on Tuesdays. (Tel: 71156)

Archondiko Argyrou - This 19th-century mansion in Vlessaria - an odd mix of local style and neoclassical opulence - was declared a protected site in 1987. The first floor is a museum, while the ground floor operates as a luxury guest house with period furnishings. Museum open 10:00 a.m.- 1:00 p.m. & 5-8:00 p.m. (Tel: 31669/Fax: 33064)

Profitis Ilias Monastery - Early birds can catch a service at sunrise and enjoy breathtaking vistas across the Aegean. If you're lucky, the monk might also give you a tour of the library and folk-art treasures.

Volcano/Hot Springs/Thirassia - Hop on a tour boat from Mesa Yialos and Oia for a memorable day trip that includes a hike up the volcano, a swim in the hot springs of Nea Kammeni, and a chance to explore the sleepy alleyways of Thirassia. "Sunset Cruises" on old-fashioned sailboats provide an alternative for the romantically inclined.

Wineries - You cannot leave Santorini without visiting at least one winery. The Kostas Antoniou winery outside Megalohori (Tel: 23557) is a non-operational museum with unbeatable ambience. The state-of-the-art Boutari winery nearby (Tel: 81011) offers in-depth tours including a multimedia slide-show. To sample some of the finest local tipple, call Paris Sigalas (Tel: 71644) to arrange a private tour of his winery/home at Koloumbos near Oia.

Where to Swim

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Santorini is famous for its black-sand beaches. The 14-kilometer Kamari beach is the most popular - and overcrowded - with Perissa on the southern shore ranking a close second. Perivolas further down is a little quieter. The dramatic Red Beach beyond Akrotiri has been sadly marred by a rash of fluorescent sun beds. If you like your beaches deserted and don't mind negotiating dirt roads, seek out Vlichada, a long black beach fringed with yellow cliffs weathered into weird formations; or the pebbly Mesa Pigadia near Fares, where you can also sample the omelets at the idyllic Christaras family restaurant. Baxedes, Koloumbos, and Pori below Oia are peaceful as long as the north wind isn't blowing.